1. A portmanteau word, formed by combining Scallop with Calliope.
2. A cosy new hat pattern from Mrs. M...
...who really wanted to call this pattern Calliope, or Carousel, or Merry-Go-Round. But these excellent names were already taken, so something new was indicated - and Scalliope it is. I rather like it.
Scalliope features a Stretchy Star Stitch crown, with a unique oval starting method that creates a flat, almost undetectable center. The distinctive band is made from quick and easy half-double crochets worked into the back bar for extra texture and warmth.
My Scalliope has already passed some extreme wind-chill tests - these stitches give a lot of insulation!
Front post stitches, worked at intervals, coax the band into soft scallops...
...and also provide a handy place to tuck some tiny embellishments.
Scalliope Hat
Sizes:
S/M (fits up to 21½")
M/L (fits up to 23½")
Size may be easily adjusted up or down by increasing or decreasing crown rounds.
Yarn Requirements:
About 200 yards of worsted weight yarn
Small amounts of worsted or dk weight yarn for embellishment
Gauge:
Stretchy Star Stitch: 3 stars and 3 rows per inch
Scalloped Band: 12 sts = 3-1/4"
Notions:
Marker or yarn scrap
Darning needle
Yarn I Used: NaturallyCaron Country (now discontinued, alas)
How Did the Yarn Behave?
Beautifully as always - glossy, smooth, frogs easily, great stitch definition. I still can't believe they discontinued this wonderful yarn. (Caron, are you listening?)
Hook Sizes:
For crown: US I/9, 5.5mm, or hook that will give gauge
For band: US H/8, 5mm hooks, or hook that will give gauge
For tiny bows, US F/5, 3.75mm (for worsted weight yarn) OR US D/3, 3.25mm hook (for dk weight yarn)
All crochet terminology is American.
Special Stitches Used:
Forward Loop Chain (forlp ch): Cast forward loop onto hook above working loop; yarn over and draw through all loops on hook. Click here for photo/video tutorial.
Stretchy Star Stitch (stretchy str): Chain 2, ins hook in back loop of 2nd ch from hook, yo and pull up a loop, ins hook in bottom ridge loop of same ch, yo and pull up a loop (3 lps on hook), ins hook in next stitch, yo and immediately draw through all lps on hook. Click here for photo/video tutorial.
Single crochet 2 together (sc2tog): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.
Dropped Half-Double Crochet (dropped hdc): Yarn over and insert hook, from bottom to top, through top strands of indicated stitch 2 rows below; complete hdc as usual, skip next st of current row.
Front Post Half-Double Crochet (fphdc): Yarn over and insert hook from right to left (or if you're crocheting lefthanded, from left to right) through indicated stitch; complete hdc as usual, skip next st of current row.
Scalliope Hat Crochet Shorthand Pattern
RS facing at all times.
Crown (worked spiral):
Starting with slipknot, forlp ch 3. Do not turn.
Round 1: Rotating work to right, stretchy str in each back ridge across (3 stars), rotate work to right again, stretchy str in each st across (3 stars) = 6 stars total. Place marker to indicate round end. Do not join. Work will look oval-shaped.
Round 2: 2 stretchy stars in each st around = 12 stars.
Round 3: *2 stretchy stars in next star, 1 stretchy star in next star. Repeat from * around = 18 stars.
Following Rounds: Increase by 6 stars each round until hat is 54 (60) stars around, moving marker up with each round.
Work even for 7 rounds.
Note: Crown will seem very loose, but will tighten up as band is stitched.
Band (worked in joined rounds):
Notes: Band Round 1 is worked in the top strands of the stretchy stars AND in the spaces between stretchy stars. (See phototutorial below.) Round 1 must result in a multiple of 6 stitches. If you have increased or decreased hat size, adjust Round 1 accordingly.
Switch to smaller hook.
Band Round 1, Size S/M: Sl st in top strands of next stretchy str to join, ch 1; starting in same st, *hdc, hdc in sp after star, (sc2tog in next stretchy str and next sp) twice. Rep from * around = 72 sts.
Band Round 1, Size M/L: Sl st to next stretchy str to join, ch 1; starting in same st, *hdc, hdc in sp after star, (sc2tog in next stretchy str and next sp) twice*. Rep from * to * 8 times, (hdc in next star, hdc in next sp) twice. Rep from * to * until 2 stars remain, (hdc in next star, hdc in next sp) twice = 84 sts.
Band Round 2: Sl st to join, ch 1; starting in same st and working in back bars, hdc around = 72 (84) sts.
Band Round 3: Sl st to join, ch 1; starting in same st, *hdc in back bar of next 5 sts, dropped hdc in top strands of hdc 2 rows below. Rep from * 11 (12) times = 72 (84) sts.
Band Rounds 4-5: Rep Band Round 2.
Band Round 6: Sl st to join, ch 1; starting in same st, *hdc in back bar of next 5 sts, fphdc in dropped hdc 2 rows below. Rep from * 11 (12) times = 72 (84) sts.
Band Rounds 7-8: Rep Band Round 2.
Band Round 9: Sl st to join, ch 1; starting in same st, *sc in back bar of next 2 sts, hdc in back bar, sc in back bar of next 2 sts, fphdc in fphdc 2 rows below. Rep from * 11 (12) times = 72 (84) sts. Sl st to join.
Cut yarn and weave in ends. May block if desired.
Optional Tiny Bow
Use a smaller than usual hook for your yarn, and very firm tension.
Leaving 4-6" tail, knotless chain 4, tr in back lp of 1st ch, ch 3, sl st in same lp (first half complete), ch 3, tr in same sp, ch 3, sl st in same sp. Cut yarn, leaving 4-6" tail, and pull up and out of loop. Wrap both tails (in opposite directions) once around front of bow and to back; knot to secure. Yarn tails may be woven in, or left long and pulled to reverse side of hat for greater security.
Make 3 bows; tuck into dropped hdc and fphdcs at band round ends (to cover joins).
Scalliope Hat Crochet Pattern in Mostly Plain English, with Photos
Don't forget to look at the Special Stitches above.
Right side will be facing you at all times.
Crown (worked spiral):
Starting with slipknot, forward loop chain 3 (click here for Forward Loop Chain photo/video tutorial). Do not turn.
Your next stitches will be made into the back ridges of the forward loop chain, indicated here by arrows:
Round 1: Stretchy star (click here for Stretchy Star photo/video tutorial) in each back ridge across (3 stars)...
...rotate work to right,
stretchy star in each stitch across (3 stars).
Your hook will be going into the same space as it did on the other side of the row - how easy is that?
Now you should have 6 stars, shaped like an oval:
Do not join - we will be working in a spiral. Now is a good time to place your stitch marker so you know where the rounds start and end. (I was working without a marker, and I paid for it a couple of rounds later. No photos, but believe me some frogging went on! After that I used a marker.)
Round 2: Make 2 stretchy stars in each star around = 12 stars. Notice how the shape is becoming circular:
Now we'll be increasing 6 stars every round. (Sorry, but I didn't take any photos of this bit.)
Round 3: *2 stretchy stars in next star, 1 stretchy star in next star.
Repeat from * around = 18 stars.
Round 4: *2 stretchy stars in next star, 1 stretchy star in each of next 2 stars. Repeat from * around = 24 stars.
Following Rounds: Increase as above by 6 stars each round (another way to describe it is to add 1 extra star between increases on each round).
Keep increasing on each round until hat is 54 (60) stars around, moving marker up with each round.
Then work 7 rounds even (no increases).
Your crown should now be about 5-1/4" (5-3/4") long from center to edge.
Don't worry if the hat seems very loose - it will tighten up as you stitch the band.
Band (worked in joined rounds):
Important Notes:
All Sizes: Slip stitch to next stretchy star.
Remember, you'll be working into the top strands of each star AND into the spaces between each star:
Band Round 1, Size S/M only:
Chain 1.
*Hdc in same stitch,
hdc in space after star,
sc 2 together in next stretchy star and next space,
sc 2 together in next stretchy star and next space.
(You have just turned 3 stars into 4 stitches.)
Repeat from * around = 72 stitches.
Band Round 1, Size M/L only:
Chain 1,
*hdc in same stitch,
hdc in space after star,
sc 2 together in next stretchy star and next space,
sc 2 together in next stretchy star and next space.*
Repeat from * to * 8 times - you should be about halfway around the crown.
Now for a funky increase:
hdc in next star,
hdc in next space,
hdc in next star,
hdc in next space.
(The funky increase will help give you a multiple of 6 at the end of the round.)
Now we return to our regular stitch pattern:
repeat from * to * again until you have 2 stars left, then:
hdc in next star,
hdc in next space,
hdc in next star,
hdc in next space.
You should now have 84 stitches in your round.
Note: In the following rounds, nearly all the stitches will be worked into the back bars of the previous round's stitches. To find the back bar, tip the edge towards you. The back bar is the horizonal strand that runs just beneath the back loop:
starting in same stitch and working in back horizontal strands,
hdc around = 72 (84) sts.
You can see how working in the back bar tips the top of the previous row forward:
On to Round 3!
Band Round 3:
Slip stitch to join,
chain 1;
starting in same stitch: *hdc in back bar of next 5 stitches,
dropped hdc in top strands of hdc 2 rows below.
Repeat from * 11 (12) times = 72 (84) stitches.
Here's where you'll make your dropped hdc:
Tip: After you make your dropped hdc, don't forget to skip over a stitch in the current row. The stitch you skip will be right behind the dropped hdc. Resume stitching in the next stitch after this one. This will keep your stitch count even.
Band Rounds 4-5: Repeat Band Round 2.
Band Round 6:
Slip stitch to join,
Chain 1;
starting in same stitch, *hdc in back bar of next 5 stitches,
Front Post hdc in dropped hdc 2 rows below.
Repeat from * 11 (12) times = 72 (84) sts.
Getting more scallop-y! (Scallopier?)
Band Rounds 7-8: Repeat Band Round 2.
And here we are at the last round!
Band Round 9:
Slip stitch to join,
chain 1;
starting in same stitch:
*sc in back bar of next 2 stitches,
hdc in next back bar,
sc in back bar of next 2 stitches,
front post hdc in front post hdc 2 rows below.
Repeat from * 11 (12) times = 72 (84) stitches.
Join with slip stitch.
Pause for a moment to admire those lovely scallops:
Then cut yarn and weave in ends. You may block the hat if you like, but it probably won't need it. :)
Optional Tiny Bows
Use a smaller than usual hook for your yarn, and very firm tension.
Leaving a 4-6" tail, knotless chain 4,
treble crochet back loop of 1st chain,
chain 3,
slip stitch in same loop (first half complete),
chain 3,
treble crochet in center space,
chain 3,
slip stitch in same space.
Cut yarn, leaving a 4-6" tail. Pull yarn end up and out of loop.
Wrap both tails (in opposite directions) once around front of bow and to back; knot to secure. Yarn tails may be woven in, or left long and pulled to reverse side of hat for greater security.
Tuck the little bow into your hat band, under the dropped hdc at the end of the band round. (You can tuck it anywhere, but here it will cover the slightly bumpy join).
If you like it, make a few more and play with the colour arrangement. Or you can make them all the same colour. I chose these shades to match my winter jacket:
You can customise your hat band all sorts of ways - try crocheting it in stripes, with a single colour button or bow for trim. Or string little chain-stitch or tiny bobble garlands from one post stitch to the next. Decorate it with a brooch or a single large button. Or try something funky like this:
Front post stitches, worked at intervals, coax the band into soft scallops...
...and also provide a handy place to tuck some tiny embellishments.
Scalliope Hat
Sizes:
S/M (fits up to 21½")
M/L (fits up to 23½")
Size may be easily adjusted up or down by increasing or decreasing crown rounds.
Yarn Requirements:
About 200 yards of worsted weight yarn
Small amounts of worsted or dk weight yarn for embellishment
Gauge:
Stretchy Star Stitch: 3 stars and 3 rows per inch
Scalloped Band: 12 sts = 3-1/4"
Notions:
Marker or yarn scrap
Darning needle
Yarn I Used: NaturallyCaron Country (now discontinued, alas)
How Did the Yarn Behave?
Beautifully as always - glossy, smooth, frogs easily, great stitch definition. I still can't believe they discontinued this wonderful yarn. (Caron, are you listening?)
Hook Sizes:
For crown: US I/9, 5.5mm, or hook that will give gauge
For band: US H/8, 5mm hooks, or hook that will give gauge
For tiny bows, US F/5, 3.75mm (for worsted weight yarn) OR US D/3, 3.25mm hook (for dk weight yarn)
All crochet terminology is American.
Special Stitches Used:
Forward Loop Chain (forlp ch): Cast forward loop onto hook above working loop; yarn over and draw through all loops on hook. Click here for photo/video tutorial.
Stretchy Star Stitch (stretchy str): Chain 2, ins hook in back loop of 2nd ch from hook, yo and pull up a loop, ins hook in bottom ridge loop of same ch, yo and pull up a loop (3 lps on hook), ins hook in next stitch, yo and immediately draw through all lps on hook. Click here for photo/video tutorial.
Single crochet 2 together (sc2tog): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.
Dropped Half-Double Crochet (dropped hdc): Yarn over and insert hook, from bottom to top, through top strands of indicated stitch 2 rows below; complete hdc as usual, skip next st of current row.
Front Post Half-Double Crochet (fphdc): Yarn over and insert hook from right to left (or if you're crocheting lefthanded, from left to right) through indicated stitch; complete hdc as usual, skip next st of current row.
Scalliope Hat Crochet Shorthand Pattern
RS facing at all times.
Crown (worked spiral):
Starting with slipknot, forlp ch 3. Do not turn.
Round 1: Rotating work to right, stretchy str in each back ridge across (3 stars), rotate work to right again, stretchy str in each st across (3 stars) = 6 stars total. Place marker to indicate round end. Do not join. Work will look oval-shaped.
Round 2: 2 stretchy stars in each st around = 12 stars.
Round 3: *2 stretchy stars in next star, 1 stretchy star in next star. Repeat from * around = 18 stars.
Following Rounds: Increase by 6 stars each round until hat is 54 (60) stars around, moving marker up with each round.
Work even for 7 rounds.
Note: Crown will seem very loose, but will tighten up as band is stitched.
Band (worked in joined rounds):
Notes: Band Round 1 is worked in the top strands of the stretchy stars AND in the spaces between stretchy stars. (See phototutorial below.) Round 1 must result in a multiple of 6 stitches. If you have increased or decreased hat size, adjust Round 1 accordingly.
Switch to smaller hook.
Band Round 1, Size S/M: Sl st in top strands of next stretchy str to join, ch 1; starting in same st, *hdc, hdc in sp after star, (sc2tog in next stretchy str and next sp) twice. Rep from * around = 72 sts.
Band Round 1, Size M/L: Sl st to next stretchy str to join, ch 1; starting in same st, *hdc, hdc in sp after star, (sc2tog in next stretchy str and next sp) twice*. Rep from * to * 8 times, (hdc in next star, hdc in next sp) twice. Rep from * to * until 2 stars remain, (hdc in next star, hdc in next sp) twice = 84 sts.
Band Round 2: Sl st to join, ch 1; starting in same st and working in back bars, hdc around = 72 (84) sts.
Band Round 3: Sl st to join, ch 1; starting in same st, *hdc in back bar of next 5 sts, dropped hdc in top strands of hdc 2 rows below. Rep from * 11 (12) times = 72 (84) sts.
Band Rounds 4-5: Rep Band Round 2.
Band Round 6: Sl st to join, ch 1; starting in same st, *hdc in back bar of next 5 sts, fphdc in dropped hdc 2 rows below. Rep from * 11 (12) times = 72 (84) sts.
Band Rounds 7-8: Rep Band Round 2.
Band Round 9: Sl st to join, ch 1; starting in same st, *sc in back bar of next 2 sts, hdc in back bar, sc in back bar of next 2 sts, fphdc in fphdc 2 rows below. Rep from * 11 (12) times = 72 (84) sts. Sl st to join.
Cut yarn and weave in ends. May block if desired.
Optional Tiny Bow
Use a smaller than usual hook for your yarn, and very firm tension.
Leaving 4-6" tail, knotless chain 4, tr in back lp of 1st ch, ch 3, sl st in same lp (first half complete), ch 3, tr in same sp, ch 3, sl st in same sp. Cut yarn, leaving 4-6" tail, and pull up and out of loop. Wrap both tails (in opposite directions) once around front of bow and to back; knot to secure. Yarn tails may be woven in, or left long and pulled to reverse side of hat for greater security.
Make 3 bows; tuck into dropped hdc and fphdcs at band round ends (to cover joins).
Scalliope Hat Crochet Pattern in Mostly Plain English, with Photos
Don't forget to look at the Special Stitches above.
Right side will be facing you at all times.
Crown (worked spiral):
Starting with slipknot, forward loop chain 3 (click here for Forward Loop Chain photo/video tutorial). Do not turn.
Your next stitches will be made into the back ridges of the forward loop chain, indicated here by arrows:
Round 1: Stretchy star (click here for Stretchy Star photo/video tutorial) in each back ridge across (3 stars)...
...rotate work to right,
stretchy star in each stitch across (3 stars).
Your hook will be going into the same space as it did on the other side of the row - how easy is that?
Now you should have 6 stars, shaped like an oval:
Do not join - we will be working in a spiral. Now is a good time to place your stitch marker so you know where the rounds start and end. (I was working without a marker, and I paid for it a couple of rounds later. No photos, but believe me some frogging went on! After that I used a marker.)
Now we'll be increasing 6 stars every round. (Sorry, but I didn't take any photos of this bit.)
Round 3: *2 stretchy stars in next star, 1 stretchy star in next star.
Repeat from * around = 18 stars.
Round 4: *2 stretchy stars in next star, 1 stretchy star in each of next 2 stars. Repeat from * around = 24 stars.
Following Rounds: Increase as above by 6 stars each round (another way to describe it is to add 1 extra star between increases on each round).
Keep increasing on each round until hat is 54 (60) stars around, moving marker up with each round.
Then work 7 rounds even (no increases).
Your crown should now be about 5-1/4" (5-3/4") long from center to edge.
Don't worry if the hat seems very loose - it will tighten up as you stitch the band.
Band (worked in joined rounds):
Important Notes:
- Band Round 1 is worked in both the top strands of the stretchy stars AND in the spaces BETWEEN stretchy stars. (See photo below.)
- Round 1 MUST result in a multiple of 6 stitches.
- If you have increased or decreased hat size, adjust Round 1 accordingly so you end up with a multiple of 6.
All Sizes: Slip stitch to next stretchy star.
Remember, you'll be working into the top strands of each star AND into the spaces between each star:
Band Round 1, Size S/M only:
Chain 1.
*Hdc in same stitch,
hdc in space after star,
sc 2 together in next stretchy star and next space,
sc 2 together in next stretchy star and next space.
(You have just turned 3 stars into 4 stitches.)
Repeat from * around = 72 stitches.
Band Round 1, Size M/L only:
Chain 1,
*hdc in same stitch,
hdc in space after star,
sc 2 together in next stretchy star and next space,
sc 2 together in next stretchy star and next space.*
Repeat from * to * 8 times - you should be about halfway around the crown.
Now for a funky increase:
hdc in next star,
hdc in next space,
hdc in next star,
hdc in next space.
(The funky increase will help give you a multiple of 6 at the end of the round.)
Now we return to our regular stitch pattern:
repeat from * to * again until you have 2 stars left, then:
hdc in next star,
hdc in next space,
hdc in next star,
hdc in next space.
You should now have 84 stitches in your round.
Note: In the following rounds, nearly all the stitches will be worked into the back bars of the previous round's stitches. To find the back bar, tip the edge towards you. The back bar is the horizonal strand that runs just beneath the back loop:
Band Round 2:
Slip stitch to join,
chain 1;Slip stitch to join,
starting in same stitch and working in back horizontal strands,
hdc around = 72 (84) sts.
You can see how working in the back bar tips the top of the previous row forward:
On to Round 3!
Band Round 3:
Slip stitch to join,
chain 1;
starting in same stitch: *hdc in back bar of next 5 stitches,
dropped hdc in top strands of hdc 2 rows below.
Repeat from * 11 (12) times = 72 (84) stitches.
Here's where you'll make your dropped hdc:
Tip: After you make your dropped hdc, don't forget to skip over a stitch in the current row. The stitch you skip will be right behind the dropped hdc. Resume stitching in the next stitch after this one. This will keep your stitch count even.
Band Rounds 4-5: Repeat Band Round 2.
Band Round 6:
Slip stitch to join,
Chain 1;
starting in same stitch, *hdc in back bar of next 5 stitches,
Front Post hdc in dropped hdc 2 rows below.
Repeat from * 11 (12) times = 72 (84) sts.
Getting more scallop-y! (Scallopier?)
Band Rounds 7-8: Repeat Band Round 2.
And here we are at the last round!
Band Round 9:
Slip stitch to join,
chain 1;
starting in same stitch:
*sc in back bar of next 2 stitches,
hdc in next back bar,
sc in back bar of next 2 stitches,
front post hdc in front post hdc 2 rows below.
Repeat from * 11 (12) times = 72 (84) stitches.
Join with slip stitch.
Pause for a moment to admire those lovely scallops:
Then cut yarn and weave in ends. You may block the hat if you like, but it probably won't need it. :)
Optional Tiny Bows
Use a smaller than usual hook for your yarn, and very firm tension.
Leaving a 4-6" tail, knotless chain 4,
treble crochet back loop of 1st chain,
chain 3,
slip stitch in same loop (first half complete),
chain 3,
treble crochet in center space,
chain 3,
slip stitch in same space.
Cut yarn, leaving a 4-6" tail. Pull yarn end up and out of loop.
Wrap both tails (in opposite directions) once around front of bow and to back; knot to secure. Yarn tails may be woven in, or left long and pulled to reverse side of hat for greater security.
Tuck the little bow into your hat band, under the dropped hdc at the end of the band round. (You can tuck it anywhere, but here it will cover the slightly bumpy join).
If you like it, make a few more and play with the colour arrangement. Or you can make them all the same colour. I chose these shades to match my winter jacket:
You can customise your hat band all sorts of ways - try crocheting it in stripes, with a single colour button or bow for trim. Or string little chain-stitch or tiny bobble garlands from one post stitch to the next. Decorate it with a brooch or a single large button. Or try something funky like this:
The possibilities are endless. :)
~ ~ ~
You may do whatever you like with the items you make from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or reproduce the text without permission. Links to this post are always welcome. If you have any questions or find any mistakes in the pattern, please leave a comment below (or you can contact me in Ravelry).
Thanks for viewing, and happy crocheting!
P.S. Don't forget to enter the Grateful Giveaway (open until December 8, 2013), for a chance to win a special crochet, knit, or sewing magazine from Interweave Press (also some chocolate and as-yet-unrevealed goodies).
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
WOW again! You are one busy gal Mrs M and you never cease to amaze! Thanks for sharing your beautiful pattern or that could be "beWOWtiful" pattern. The hat looks very toasty warm and the color is perfect. Portmanteau - could be the next word of the week!
ReplyDeleteYour Scalliope is beautiful Sue - you are one very clever amazing lady and your tutorial is so well done too, thanks so much for sharing it! Joy x
ReplyDeleteVery pretty and such a clever design. Juliex
ReplyDeleteOh thank you so muchnfor this pattern sue. I was looking for an extra cute hat pattern for a present and this one is simply perfect!
ReplyDeleteRosie
I love your Scalliope Sue what a beautiful pattern, thank you so much for the tutorial, I have pinned this to my to do list. :)
ReplyDeleteLovely hat, Sue!!! The stitch pattern is very unique and looks splendid. Thanks for sharing :-)
ReplyDeleteGaaaaaah! You are amazing! Absolutely LOVE this! Can't wait to start it! And the insulation part makes me very happy...I've been FREEZING this autumn/winter! Woo hoo! Thank you!!!!!!
ReplyDeleteOh, you are so good to share this! It is SUCH a beautiful creation!! I love the border around it and the colorful bits you have added to it. I really LOVE it.
ReplyDeleteonce again you spoil us rotten. I love it, it has a 1920's flare to it.
ReplyDeleteHugs,
Meredith
Wow this is such a nice creation. Thank you
ReplyDeleteThat hat is sooo cute! I love that star stitch. Maybe someday I will be brave enough to try it. :) Thanks for the lovely tutorial. You are amazing!
ReplyDeleteOh my gosh ....what adorable embellishments! SQUEEEEEE!
ReplyDeleteGreat hat and tutorial, I fancy making a hat at the moment, but am desperately trying to finish a gift to put in the post....then maybe a hat....it has become a lot cooler here, but not the sort of temps you get., i also fancy making some mitts for myself....too many projects, not enough time!
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing your beautiful pattern and skilled tutorial, Sue! I hope you feel chuffed :)
ReplyDeleteGracie xx
Another fabulous pattern and tutorial! And those bows; the perfect touch.
ReplyDeleteThat is one cute hat. I like the addition of the colorful bows. Hope you have a wonderful week. Tammy
ReplyDeleteAm I the only one that got confused with the two "Band Round 1" sections??? I got 72 for the first "Round 1" but did not get 84 in the second "Round 1"... I'm sure the intention wasn't to ball to rounds "Round 1", but even still, I'm getting something wrong. Help, please?
ReplyDeleteThe first Band Round 1 is for a Small/Medium hat (it does say "Band Round 1, Size S/M). The second Band Round 1 is for a Medium/Large hat (it says "Band Round 1, Size M/L). You should only make one Round 1, according to the size hat you are making. There are no increases on the band - whatever number of stitches you have in Round 1 should remain the same throughout all the band rounds. Hope that makes sense, and good luck with your project! :)
DeleteAfter coming back to it and looking at it again, I finally saw I had been missing that. Ugh... I felt so silly!
DeleteHowever, now I'm not understanding the dropped hdc. Is it supposed to be a bp hdc as well or is it to go into the actual "v" stitch in the front?
I usually do pretty well with these things but, as simple as it all actually seems to me, I'm getting stumped. :/
The dropped hdcs go into the top 2 strands of the hdc 2 rows below - so they are not post stitches, they're just like regular hdcs only made in a different row. You'll make one round with dropped hdcs (where directed), then on following rounds (where directed) you'll make front post hdcs. Hope that makes sense - please ask again if it doesn't! :)
DeleteWait... The post stitches are supposed to be front, not back? The directions say "back bar".
DeleteMost of the band stitches (from Band Round 2 onward) are hdcs made in the back bar. This is what creates the horizontal effect (like sideways knitting all around the band). It's explained pretty clearly in the phototuorial, under Band Round 2:
Delete"Starting in same stitch and working in back horizontal strands, hdc around = 72 (84) sts.
You can see how working in the back bar tips the top of the previous row forward..." etc.
The ACCENT stitches are dropped hdcs - these happen only once every 6 stitches, on every 3rd row of the band; they are what create the raised vertical bars and the "tucked" effect. This too is explained step by step in the phototutorial ... take your time with the instructions and I think you'll find most of your questions answered there. If not feel free to ask again. :)
The not-so-clearly written instructions are the reason I had to ask in the first place. I have worked many patterns and have only come across 3 that have confused me (this one included) because the writers have fallen away from the norm of pattern language. There is a certain way that nearly all patterns are written, and there is a reason for that. Even Russian patterns are written using said norm. Throwing in your own words that are different from the norm are the problem. I know others have had no issue with this, but I also know that there were probably many that had issues and were too afraid or anxious to ask questions and say what their problem with the pattern.
DeleteYou have helped me very little. I will make my own band. Thank you anyway.
You're welcome, and good luck with the rest of your project! I'd love to see your hat when you are done - it's always fun to see how other crafters personalize their projects.
DeleteBy the way, if it's convenient, would you point out which terms/words I used that are inconsistent with standard crochet language? I've reviewed the pattern as written above (not the phototutorial, but the "shorthand" pattern that precedes it), and it seems fairly standard to me. As far as I know, "dropped hdc", "front post hdc", and "hdc in the back bar" are all commonly used terms. ("Forward Loop Chain" and "Stretchy star" are not standard terms, but I made up those stitches myself and so claim the naming rights to them.)
If you can tell me where you think I went wrong in terms of patternwriting, it will help me to do a better job in the future. Thanks for your feedback.
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ReplyDeleteHave now made a couple of hats in Caron yarn for Cancer patients...lovely soft, warm pattern. Thank you for creating it and the Tutorial too!
ReplyDeleteLovely hat! Thank you very much!
ReplyDeleteChildren loose hats so quickly and the warm ones tend to cost a fortune in season in a mountain village.
Big warm hug from a happy mum and baby girl!
Will you make a baby boy one? I haven't had so much fun since I learned to crochet at school! And your items are truly amazing!!
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ReplyDeleteLove the beautiful stitch!! Can you explain better how to do it in the round if I did a ribbed brim first (bottom to top hat)? Do you have an email? Maybe we can communicate there!
ReplyDeleteHi Samantha - thank you for your kind comment.
DeleteI don't have a decrease method worked out for the stretchy star stitch, so I wouldn't be able to help you convert the pattern to a bottom-up hat. The stitch is actually more suited to top-down use, because it kind of splays out at the edges (this is part of what makes it so stretchy). When worked top-down, you get the full advantage of that stretchiness.
You could always work the hat top-down and make the ribbed band at the end. To do this, chain the number of stitches you want for the band, then work the first row of ribbing back towards the hat. Slip stitch to the hat, turn, and work the next row of ribbing away from the hat. Swatching will help you determine the best ratio of ribbing rows to hat stitches.
Good luck, and don't be afraid to experiment!