Spring?

Weary of winter, of frost and snow and bitter winds, we've waited so long and (im)patiently for this day. At last it has arrived! Spring has sprung.

Or has it?

Here's what the first day of spring looks like in the middle of Wisconsin. A lake still sheathed in ice:

A gull waiting patiently at the edge of a bit of open water:

Last year's flowers wondering if things will ever warm up again:

Evergreen trees casting long shadows over the (shrinking? Please let it be shrinking!) ice:

Red-twig dogwood providing a pop of cheery color:

A cozy squirrel's nest high in a bare tree:

Spring may not come in with flowers and warm breezes here, but at least we have sunshine and blue skies. (And the hope of flowers to come.)

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Happy Spring to my northern-hemisphere readers. And happy Autumn to those of you south of the equator.

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Elenath Scarf: a Free Crochet Pattern

I've been wanting to post this pattern since January, but life kept getting in the way. Now we're well into March, and it's nearly spring - but one thing that's certain in Wisconsin is that Winter Will Return (in fact, we woke up to 8" of new snow yesterday morning), and a scarf is always handy.

So, in the spirit of better-late-than-never, I present the:

Elenath is a beautifully thick and squishy scarf featuring two kinds of star stitches, yarnover slip stitch accent rows, and a decorative edging of yarnover slip stitch and Corded Hdc. A special turning chain on the tall stitch rows gives this scarf a sturdy and straight edge, so you can omit the edging rounds if you like.

The name "Elenath" comes from the Sindarin language invented by J.R.R. Tolkien, and means "starry host" or "all the host of the stars of heaven".

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Elenath Scarf Pattern in Mostly Plain English (videotutorial follows written pattern)

Sample Size: 4½" x 60" (size is easily customized)

Yarn Requirements: Worsted weight yarn, approx. 300 yards (more for a larger scarf)

Yarn I Used: Loops & Threads Natural Marl (discontinued)

Hook(s): Choose a hook size appropriate for your yarn. Optional: extra hook one or two sizes smaller for edging.

Hook Sizes I Used: US J/6mm; US H/5mm for edging

Recommended stitch tension: Relaxed for star stitches; moderate to firm for yarnover slip stitch

Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends

All crochet terminology is American.

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Abbreviations and Special Terms

Dc: Double crochet

Near/Nearer/Nearest: Close(st) to your hook hand as you work.

Far/Farther/Farthest: Far(ther) from your hook hand as you work.

RS: Right side

WS: Wrong side

Yo: Yarn over

YoSS (yarnover slip stitch): Yo, insert hook into indicated loop/stitch, yo and pull up a loop; pull this loop through the two loops already on your hook.

Pattern

Note: Scarf is worked over a multiple of 6 + 4 stitches. My sample is 16 stitches wide. For a wider scarf, increase your starting chain by any multiple of 6.

Loosely chain 17, turn.

Row 1 (WS): Working into the back bumps, starting in the 2nd chain from the hook, YoSS in each of the next 15 chains, slip stitch in the next chain. (Note: if you plan to omit the edging, replace the ending slip stitch with a YoSS, here and on every YoSS row). Do not turn. 16 stitches

Tip for Row 1:

• The initial yarnover of each YoSS helps form the accent loops on the RS of the scarf. To prevent loose/floppy loops, make sure your initial yarnover is snug on the hook, close to the working loop, before inserting your hook into the stitch below.

Row 2 (RS): Make special turning chain: insert hook down through the front loop of the stitch you just made, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook (you should now have two loops sitting on the working yarn, next to the working loop on your hook); insert hook into the nearer loop, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook (you now have two new loops on the working yarn); insert hook into the farther loop, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook. Turn work clockwise (counterclockwise if you are crocheting left-handed), here and throughout.

First tall star: Yo, insert hook into back loop only of stitch that the special turning chain comes out of, yo and pull up a loop as tall as the turning chain, [insert hook into back loop only of next stitch, yo and pull up a tall loop] 3 times. Grasp working yarn with finger and thumb close to base of tall loops, yo and pull through all 6 loops on hook (a large vertical loop will form around your finger at the side of the star); remove finger from vertical loop without letting go of loop, insert hook into vertical loop space, chain 1 to catch loop (you can let go now), chain 1 more to complete star.

Remaining tall stars: [[Yo, insert hook into back loop only of the last stitch used for previous star, yo and pull up a tall loop, [insert hook into back loop only of next stitch, yo and pull up a tall loop] 3 times. Grasping working yarn close to base of tall loops, yo and pull through all 6 loops on hook, insert hook into side loop, chain 1 to catch loop, chain 1 more to complete star.]] Repeat the instructions in double brackets across, omitting the final chain-1 after completing the last star.

Ending dc: Yo, insert hook into the back loop just used and the back loop below the YoSS row, complete a dc. Special turn + 5 tall stars + ending dc = 16 stitches

Tip for Row 2:

Each star stitch (here and on Row 4) starts with a yarnover. Be careful not to add any more yarnovers between star legs (if you do, the resulting fabric will be very stiff).

Row 3 (WS): Ch 1, turn clockwise, YoSS in the back loop only each of next 15 stitches; insert hook up through the 2 topmost WS loops of special turning chain, make a slip stitch.

Row 4 (RS): Make special turning chain (as at beginning of Row 2), turn clockwise.

First star: Yo, insert hook into middle back vertical loop of special turning chain, yo and pull up a generous loop, insert hook into bottom back vertical loop of special turning chain, yo and pull up a loop, skip the stitch the special turning chain comes out of, [insert hook into back loop only of next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop] 3 times. Yo and pull through all 7 loops on hook, chain 1 to form eyelet and complete star.

Remaining stars: [[Yo, insert hook into eyelet of previous star, yo and pull up a loop, insert hook into farthest back vertical loop of star, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into back loop only of the last stitch used for previous star, yarn over and pull up a loop, [insert hook into back loop only of next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop] 2 times. Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on hook, chain 1 to form eyelet and complete star.]] Repeat between double brackets across; your last star should end in the last stitch. 

Make ending double crochet (as at end of Row 2), inserting hook into back loop just used and back loop below YoSS row. Special turn + 7 stars + ending dc = 16 stitches

Row 5: Repeat Row 3.

Following Rows: Repeat Rows 2-5 to desired scarf length.

Final Row (RS): Chain 1, turn, slip stitch with relaxed tension in back loop only of each stitch across.

Edging

If desired, switch to a smaller hook.

Edging Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, (does not count as a stitch; place marker in ch-1 so you don't accidentally work into it later), rotate work sideways.

First long edge: Slip stitch in YoSS row end (inserting hook straight through the ridge of stitches), [YoSS under 2 loops of middle section of dc, YoSS under 2 loops of bottom section of dc, YoSS in next YoSS row end]. Repeat between brackets to corner, rotate work. 

First short edge: YoSS in back loop only of each stitch across to next corner, rotate work. 

Second long edge: [[YoSS in slip stitch row end, YoSS under double side loops at middle of special turning chain, YoSS under double side loops at top of special turning chain.]] Repeat between double brackets to next corner, YoSS in next slip stitch row end, rotate work. 

Second short edge: YoSS in back loop only of each stitch across (do not stitch into marked ch-1).

Make Long Loop Join: remove hook, enlarge working loop to about 3/4". Skipping ch-1 and first edging slip stitch, insert hook from WS to RS through top loops of first YoSS of this round, pull long loop through. Insert hook up through back bar and back loop of originating stitch, pull long loop down and through (long loop will pass over ch-1 and slip stitch; tip of long loop becomes new working loop). Adjust join if needed to match surrounding stitches in size.

Edging Round 2: Half-double crochet in back loop of slip stitch. [Insert hook down through front loop and front bar of hdc just made, yo and pull up a loop, insert hook into back bar of next YoSS, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all loops on hook; Corded Hdc complete.] Repeat between brackets around.

Make invisible join: Cut yarn, leaving a 6" tail. Gently pull yarn tail up and out of stitch, without distorting stitch. Skipping starting hdc, insert hook from WS to RS through top loops of first Corded Hdc of this  round, pull yarn tail all the way through. Insert hook, from bottom to top through back bar and back loop of originating Corded Hdc, pull yarn tail down and through. Turn work so WS is facing you; pull yarn tail sideways and down through next horizontal loop to the right (to the left if you're crocheting left-handed).

Finishing

Weave in ends. If desired, to "settle" YoSS accent rows, stretch scarf crossways all down its length by tugging long side edges outwards, starting at one short end and working your way to the other short end (or fold the scarf in half, with short ends together, and tug outwards on four edges at once).

If desired, block lightly. (I didn't block my scarf at all.)

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Videotutorial

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Idea for Variations

My scarf uses alternating tall star rows and regular star rows, but you could use all tall stars, all regular stars, or mix it up and work the star rows in any quantity or order you like - for example, 3 tall star row repeats followed by 1 regular star row repeat. (Just remember to work a YoSS row between each star row.)

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If you have any questions, or find mistakes in the pattern, please feel free to comment below, or contact me on Ravelry where I'm MrsMicawber.

Thanks for viewing, and happy crocheting!

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Looking Up

The weather here has been a real rollercoaster of late. For two weeks in a row we've gone from comparatively warm days (complete with birdsong, nestbuilding, flyovers by geese and blackbirds, and even a robin-sighting), to heavy snowstorms (some with bonus ice!), to rain. Rinse and repeat. I rejoice at the snow, marvel at the birds, and am unenthusiastic about the rain as it turns everything to muddy slush, but there's no doubt that spring is putting out tentative feelers, testing winter's strength, and teasing us all with hints of an early thaw.

Today is of the grey-and-rainy variety, but yesterday was gloriously blue-skied and sunny - perfect for an afternoon walk. Clouds and contrails made a dramatic backdrop to the trees and fields:

A half-moon floated above bare branches:

In the intervals of looking up, I couldn't help snapping photos of dried wildflowers (the ruling passion). These looked like little brown mop heads:

Goldenrod stood guard along the trail:

And horsemint on a snowy bank:

Above the flowers, a hawk wheeled and swooped:

At one corner of the field, a venerable chestnut bore fuzzy buds:

On the far opposite corner, another hawk (or perhaps the same one?) alighted on a telephone pole:

Overhead were more contrails, like giant lacy scribbles across the sky:

Time to turn westward, where the sinking sun was caught in the branches of a favorite oak:

Then home to an early supper and an evening of crochet.

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How is your weather? Any surprise snow lately?

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Corded Hdc Edging

Here's an easy textured edging I recently developed for an upcoming free pattern:

Corded Hdc is a simple variation of the half double crochet stitch. It makes a stretchy, sturdy edging with a corded/cabled/braided look that's attractive on both sides. It's especially effective when combined with slip stitch or yarnover slip stitch:

This scarf is edged with a round of yarnover slip stitch followed by a round of Corded Hdc.

Corded Hdc Edging Videotutorial:

Corded Hdc Edging Phototutorial:

1. Hdc in the stitch where you want your edging to start.

2. Insert your hook down through the front loop and the front horizontal bar (the strand just below the front loop) of the hdc you just made, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops now on hook).

3. Insert your hook in the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops now on hook).

4. Yarn over and pull through all the loops on your hook.

Repeat Steps 2-4 around your project, ending in the stitch just before the starting hdc. Finish with an invisible join (see video tutorial for details).

Corded Hdc Edging Tips

• When inserting your hook into the previous stitch's front loop and front bar, you may want to place a finger onto the working loop to keep it in place.
• Consider using a hook one or two sizes smaller when working this edging.
• For corner spaces, 2 Corded Hdc may be enough. Experiment to see what works best for your project.
• Since the back of the stitch is so attractive, consider working the edging with the project's WS facing you.

Can Corded Hdc be used to make crochet fabric? Yes, but the fabric may be rather stiff. You'll also have to decide which loops you want to work into: top loops or double top loops? Front loop and front bar, or back loop and back bar? Each will give a different appearance. Have fun trying!

Coming soon: a free scarf pattern that features Corded Hdc edging.

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There's not much new under the sun, including crochet stitches. I developed this one myself, while experimenting with yarn and hook, but if you've seen it somewhere else under a different name, please let me know so I can give credit where credit is due.

Thanks for viewing, and happy crocheting!

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New (and New-to-You) Patterns

I may have slacked off from blogging for nearly a year, but I didn't stop designing. So this post is a bit of a catch-up to highlight my two latest patterns, and show you two more that were published last year but never blogged.

We'll start with the newest first. (Note: All links will take you to my Ravelry store. You don't have to be a Ravelry member to buy a pattern there. If you're not comfortable using Ravelry, and you live in the US, you can contact me using the form at right to arrange a purchase through Paypal.)

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Rhyolite Hat

Like the stone it's named for, the Rhyolite Hat features a fascinating combination of textures, from the smooth and stretchy linked-stitch crown, to the cushiony, crystalline-looking star stitch band accented with drop stitches. It's also reversible, so you can wear it inside out for a completely different look.

Rhyolite looks best in a solid, tonal, or lightly speckled yarn. Light to medium colors will let the stitch pattern shine.

The pink Rhyolite sample was worked in Emma's Yarns Simply Spectacular DK, 100% superwash merino, color Glamping. This yarn was lovely to handle and work with, though just a tiny bit splitty here and there. Based on its yardage and size, it seemed more like a light worsted than a DK weight, so I used the same size hook (US H/5mm) as I did for the green worsted weight version.

The green version was worked in Misti Alpaca Best of Nature Worsted, 100% alpaca, color Spring Bud. This yarn is beautifully silky to the touch, and held up well to lots of frogging and re-working as I developed the pattern. The finished hat feels soft and luxurious, with a wonderful drape.

Both hats were very lightly blocked by spritzing with water to dampen, then laying flat on a towel to dry.

Rhyolite is worked top-down in spiral rounds from the crown to the band, and joined rounds from the band to the brim. Careful stitch placement and special joining techniques give the band a perfectly seamless appearance. If you enjoy unusual stitches and mindful crochet, you'll like this pattern.

The Rhyolite Hat pattern includes full written instructions for both worsted weight and dk weight versions, plus charts and a video tutorial for the special stitches and joins. Find it here in my Ravelry store, and enjoy 25% off this pattern through Tuesday February 21 with code MRSM at checkout. (This code will work for all of the patterns featured in this blog post.)

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Ashborn Shawl

The Ashborn Shawl is a shallow, elongated crescent shawl, worked side-to-side with a softly zigzagged lower edge. The simple stitch pattern and intriguing short-row edging make for a happy mix of mindless crochet with regular pops of interest. Wear it bandanna-style, or swirl it around your shoulders for layers of soft scallops. The pattern is divided into sections for easy customization, so you can make your shawl wider or narrower, deeper or shallower, by working more or fewer repeats of the desired sections.

Ashborn was designed with a gradient, but will also look lovely in solid, tonal, or lightly speckled yarns. This sample was worked in Hobbii Cotton Kings Sultan, 100% cotton, color 37 Pearl. Stranded cotton yarns like this one can really flatten with wet-blocking, so to preserve the edging texture I gave this shawl a just bit of a spritz to lightly dampen it, then let it dry flat. (The fabric worked up so nicely I could probably have skipped the blocking altogether.)

The Ashborn Shawl pattern has written instructions, full charts, and a link to a video tutorial. You can buy it here in my Ravelry store, and enjoy 25% off this pattern through Tuesday February 21 with code MRSM at checkout.

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The next two patterns were both inspired by a little verse of my own, published here in May 2011 (a lifetime ago!):

Cross-legged in the grass, I watch

the rainbow growing in my hands

while lilac winds make music in the pines

Music in the Pines

Music in the Pines is an asymmetrical triangle shawl with a softly curving neckline, worked corner-out in a lacy combination of chain loops, v-stitches, and treble crochet clusters. A scalloped edging is worked in one with the rows, and an openwork section across the short end features subtle pine tree shapes:

Music in the Pines was designed with a gradient, but will also look lovely in solid or tonal yarns. (For best appearance, choose a yarn that will block well.) This sample was worked in Hobbii Azalea, a stranded cotton/acrylic blend, color 5 Persil. The yarn was soft and pleasant to handle; it responded well to wet-blocking and being pinned to shape until dry.

The Music in the Pines pattern includes written instructions and charts. Find the pattern here in my Ravelry store, and enjoy 25% off through Tuesday February 21 with code MRSM at checkout.

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Lilac Winds

The sister pattern to Music in the Pines, Lilac Winds is a lush and lacy trapezoidal shawl with a softly scooped neck. Worked from the top down, it features stitch patterns inspired by lilac petals, wind, and pine boughs. An easy foundation loop row lets you customize your shawl’s relative width and depth.

Lilac Winds was designed with a gradient, but will also look lovely in solid or tonal yarns. (For best appearance, choose a yarn that will block well.) This sample was worked in Hobbii Cotton Kings Sultan Pastello, a 100% cotton stranded yarn, color 7 Beautyberry. The finished shawl was blocked by dampening and pinning to shape. 

The Lilac Winds pattern includes written instructions and charts. Find it here in my Ravelry store, and enjoy 25% off the pattern until Tuesday February 21 with code MRSM at checkout.

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Whew! All caught up now. The next pattern I post will be a free one. :)

Thanks for viewing, and happy crocheting!

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Happy Trails

I've been a bit of a slug this winter, preferring hibernation to exercise. (Wait - do snails hibernate? Apparently they do.) Weeks of gloomy weather, plus a three-week January virus (not Covid, thank God), were major contributors to my general desire for sleep and slothfulness. But a new month is upon us, the virus has receded, and the sun has shone for several days now, so yesterday I put on my winter boots and sallied forth into the great outdoors.

I wasn't the only one on the trails:

Along the edge of a field, winter winds had carved the snow into sandlike ridges:

These fascinating tracks reminded me of a lacy crochet edging:

This tiny treasure was hiding in a deer's hoofprint:

At the prairie restoration project, dried flowers caught the rays of the setting sun:

Then it was farewell to the happy trails, and homeward bound for supper.

It's good to be walking (and blogging) again.

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In other news, there's a new pattern in the works; I hope to release it later this week. Here's a sneak peek:

Happy Monday to you all!

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Unfinished

These were my sister's last projects.

A few days after my last blog post, she laid them down and never picked them up again. The next month she was gone. Her projects, like her life, remain unfinished.

I've been trying to write this post ever since, and the words just wouldn't come. Even now they seem to be stuck somewhere between my heart and my fingertips. I think of her, and my dad, every day. Losing them both, six months apart, was crushing. Getting through the first birthday and Christmas without her was inexpressibly hard.

I'm sorry, friends, for this long silence. My sister was so proud of this blog; maybe that's why everything connected with it has been too painful to contemplate in the months since her death. She would be the first to tell me to buck up and keep posting, but up to now I haven't been able to bring myself to do it.

Now that the ice is broken, I hope to do better. Someday, when it doesn't hurt so much, I'll finish her projects. And maybe someday I'll be able to write a post about her, and about some of the things she meant to me. But not yet.

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Wishing you all a belated Happy New Year, with fervent hope that 2023 will be better than 2022.

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