Back in the dawn of blogging time - or, in my case, 2012 - I wrote a tutorial for the Knotless Standing Single Crochet, a free-standing single crochet worked with a new piece of yarn into an existing project. (Very handy for starting a new color when working multicolor crochet in the round, or at the edge of flat striped rows. No slipknot is used, hence the "knotless".)
At the end of that post, I hinted that the Knotless Standing technique could be applied to taller stitches, but that further research would be required - after which I apparently forgot all about the topic, until a few weeks ago when reader Jennifer contacted me to ask about a follow-up tutorial.
Thanks to Jennifer's question, I've taken a deeper (or do I mean taller?) look at Knotless Standing Stitches, and this post is the result. As you'll see, the basic technique remains the same through all applicable stitch heights, with an extra tail-weaving step added to the taller stitches.
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This technique works well with:
US single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), and taller standard crochet stitches
Dc and taller clusters (not demonstrated in this post)
This technique does NOT work with:
US half double crochet (hdc)
Any single stitch that ends by pulling the yarn through 3 loops
Taller Knotless Standing Stitches Phototutorial (scroll down for videotutorial)
To start a Knotless Standing Stitch, wrap the new yarn across the front of the hook towards your hook hand, around the back away from your hook hand, then drop the tail in front, over the working yarn:
Holding the yarn tail in place (against the fabric for sc, against the hook for dc or taller), yarn over as many times as needed for your stitch (remember, this technique doesn't work with hdc).
Insert hook into desired stitch or space, and work the stitch as usual until you have 2 loops left on the hook (if the stitch has loosened up, pull gently on yarn tail to tighten stitch). Here I have a partially-worked Knotless Standing Dc:
Before you complete the stitch, move the yarn tail behind the hook, away from your hook hand, and over the working yarn:
Yarn over and pull through the 2 loops on the hook to complete the stitch:
On a dc or taller stitch, the yarn tail will be sticking out of the stitch post on the back. After working a few more stitches, or just before ending the round, weave the tail downwards (towards the base of the stitch), through the back bump(s) of the Standing Stitch below where the tail comes out. Always weave the tail through as many back bumps as there were yarnovers at the beginning of the stitch. (In other words, weave through 1 back bump for a dc, 2 back bumps for a treble, etc.) In this photo, I've woven through 1 back bump of my Knotless Standing Dc:
After weaving the tail down through the stitch post, weave the remainder through other stitches when and as desired.
What Size Knotless Standing Stitch Should You Use?
If working flat, start with a Standing Stitch the same size as the remaining stitches in the row.
If working in the round, you have two options: use a Standing Stitch the same size as all the other stitches in the round, OR one size shorter. If you start with a shorter Standing Stitch, you can close the round with a join (such as a slip stitch, slip loop join, long loop join, or invisible join) that passes over the Standing Stitch and connects to the stitch after it, thus preserving the stitch count.
Knotless Standing Cluster
To use this technique with a cluster stitch: wrap the starting yarn tail as for any Knotless Standing Stitch. Yarn over as appropriate, and work the cluster until you have 3 loops left on the hook (or until you are ready to "yarn over and pull through all loops on hook"). Move the tail behind the hook and over the working yarn, then complete the stitch. Weave the tail down through either side of the cluster as desired.
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Knotless Standing Stitches Videotutorial
This tutorial includes Knotless Standing Sc, Dc, and Tr, and shows how to start weaving in the tail for all three.
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If you have any questions about this technique, feel free to ask in the comment box below. You can also use the contact form at the upper right side of this page, or find me on Ravelry as MrsMicawber.
As always, thanks for viewing, and happy crocheting!
Here's an easy textured edging I recently developed for an upcoming free pattern:
Corded Hdc is a simple variation of the half double crochet stitch. It makes a stretchy, sturdy edging with a corded/cabled/braided look that's attractive on both sides. It's especially effective when combined with slip stitch or yarnover slip stitch:
This scarf is edged with a round of yarnover slip stitch followed by a round of Corded Hdc.
Corded Hdc Edging Videotutorial:
Corded Hdc Edging Phototutorial:
1. Hdc in the stitch where you want your edging to start.
2. Insert your hook down through the front loop and the front horizontal bar (the strand just below the front loop) of the hdc you just made, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops now on hook).
3. Insert your hook in the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops now on hook).
4. Yarn over and pull through all the loops on your hook.
Repeat Steps 2-4 around your project, ending in the stitch just before the starting hdc. Finish with an invisible join (see video tutorial for details).
Corded Hdc Edging Tips
When inserting your hook into the previous stitch's front loop and front bar, you may want to place a finger onto the working loop to keep it in place.
Consider using a hook one or two sizes smaller when working this edging.
For corner spaces, 2 Corded Hdc may be enough. Experiment to see what works best for your project.
Since the back of the stitch is so attractive, consider working the edging with the project's WS facing you.
Can Corded Hdc be used to make crochet fabric? Yes, but the fabric may be rather stiff. You'll also have to decide which loops you want to work into: top loops or double top loops? Front loop and front bar, or back loop and back bar? Each will give a different appearance. Have fun trying!
Coming soon: a free scarf pattern that features Corded Hdc edging.
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There's not much new under the sun, including crochet stitches. I developed this one myself, while experimenting with yarn and hook, but if you've seen it somewhere else under a different name, please let me know so I can give credit where credit is due.
Hello fellow crocheters! Here's a technique I developed a couple of years ago, but never got around to posting (too distracted by the book, if truth be told).
This technique has now been used in several projects, with excellent results. So, without further ado, I happily present the:
Forward Loop Box Chain is a variation of the Forward Loop chain, but with much greater elasticity.
As its name implies, Forward Loop Box Chain has a boxy shape. It looks like a chain on three sides, and like a row of bumps on the forth. When worked with normal tension, it makes a subtly handsome foundation row. If worked with a loose enough tension, on a project of some weight, a row of decorative eyelets may appear between the chain and the first row of stitches.
Where to Use the Forward Loop Box Chain
Try the Forward Loop Box Chain as a foundation row on:
Mitts
Hats
Top-down tops or ponchos
Top-down socks
Any project that needs a stretchy foundation edge with good recovery
I've used the Forward Loop Box Chain on bottom-up mitts and top-down socks, and it's held its shape well through many wearings.
Forward Loop Box Chain foundation rows
Forward Loop Box Chain Video Tutorial
(This video is for right-handed crocheters. For a left-handed version, click here.)
Forward Loop Box Chain Photo Tutorial
1. Start with a slipknot on your hook.
2-4. Make a forward loop* on the hook above the slipknot.
5-6. Make another forward loop (3 loops now on hook). Yarn over, and pull through all the loops on your hook. (If it's hard to get the hook through the loops, gently grasp the base of the loops and pull downwards/away from the hook, as in Photo 9 below.)
(*How to make a forward loop: Keep working loop on hook and working yarn draped over forefinger, from front to back. Lift forefinger slightly to form 2 vertical strands of yarn, one in front and one behind finger. Place hook behind the back strand and use hook to pull strand towards your hook hand. Slide hook up through the loop that forms. Yarn should look like a letter "D" (for right-handers) or "O", with the tip of the hook pointing up through the hole. Remove forefinger from yarn while keeping hook in the "hole". Gently pull on working yarn to tighten loop until it is snug against the working loop.)
To continue:
7-8. Insert hook into the farthest of the loops you just pulled through.
9. Make a forward loop on the hook (3 loops now on hook).
10. Yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.
Repeat Steps 7-10 to desired length.
For a firmer chain: After inserting hook into the farthest loop, tighten the working yarn before yarning over and pulling through the loops on the hook.
Working Into a Forward Loop Box Chain
Note: For maximum elasticity, work only into the bumpy edge.
Before you work the next row, turn your Forward Loop Box Chain so that the bumpy edge is facing you. Stretch the chain, then let it spring back to shape. You should see a row of longer bumps alternating with tiny bumps. When working into a Forward Loop Box Chain, use the longer bumps, and skip the tiny bumps.
To work the next row: Chain 1 (or an appropriate number for the stitch you plan to use). Insert hook into first longer bump, make desired stitch. *Skip the tiny bump, insert hook into next long bump, make desired stitch. Repeat from *.
That's it!
Tip: Be careful not to let the box chain twist as you work into it. Check often to make sure you are working into the long bumps, and not into one of the chain loops.
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If you have any questions about this technique, ask away in the comment section below, or contact me in Ravelry (where I'm MrsMicawber).
I hope you'll try the Forward Loop Box Chain for yourself. If you do, let me know how it works.
To get the most from this material, you need to be familiar with basic Live Loop cable and Live Loop stitch techniques. For an introduction to Live Loop techniques, see this video, or purchase the book Live Loop Cables in Crochethere.
Video Demonstration
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Here's a more in-depth look at some of the things addressed in the video.
Important Fundamentals of Live Loop (LL) Cables
Every LL cable loop has a right side (RS) and a wrong side (WS). The RS of an untwisted cable loop faces the same direction as the RS of the fabric, when the cable loop is held parallel to the fabric face. To prevent twisted cable loops, always insert your hook from RS to WS into an untwisted cable loop, whether you're working a RS or a WS row.
But what if your loops don't sit parallel to the fabric face? Unsecured cable loops can twist, and loops placed on a holder actually sit sideways. How do you tell which is the RS?
Practice is key. The more LL cables you work, the better you'll get at recognizing the RS of a loop. Understanding how yarning over vs yarning under affects loop orientation can also help.
To Hold or Not to Hold - and When
After pulling up your cable loops, you can put them on a holder, or leave them loose. (Another way to secure loops is detailed in the book, but not addressed in the video or this post.)
If you do use a holder, you can:
Insert it while the loops are still on the hook. This will preserve the loops' initial orientation.
Insert it after you remove the hook. This gives you the option to change their orientation.
This post shows the results of inserting a holder while the loops are still on the hook.
Yarning Over/Under and Loop Orientation
You can yarn over or yarn under when pulling up new cable loops. It makes no difference to the finished cable, as long as you insert your hook into each cable loop from RS to WS on the following row.
However, yarning over/under does affect the new loop's initial orientation.
RS Row Cable Loop Orientation
Here's what happens when you yarn over or yarn under while working a RS row LL cable, and insert a holder while the loops are still on the hook:
If you're working in back-and-forth rows, this means:
Loops pulled up by yarning over on the RS row will face away from your hook hand when you work the following (WS) row.
Loops pulled up by yarning under on the RS row will face towards your hook hand when you work the following (WS) row.
WS Row (Inverse) Cable Loop Orientation
Note: I call LL cables worked on a WS row inverse cables, because they are worked with the yarn held in front and the hook in back.
Here's what happens when you yarn over or yarn under (as illustrated below) on an inverse cable, and insert a holder while the loops are still on the hook:
If you're working in back-and-forth rows, this means:
Whether you yarn over or yarn under, if you do it exactly as shown above, loops pulled up will face towards your hook hand when you work the following (RS) row.
This was a bit of a mind-bender for me. I had to test this over and over before I grasped the results. Just call me spatially-challenged! :)
Hook Insertion Tip for Inverse Cables
When working inverse cables, if you find it awkward to insert your hook, try catching the near leg (the leg that connects to the stitches nearest your hook hand) with the lip of the hook, then sliding the hook tip through the loop.
In the video, you can see me do this starting at the 2:03 mark.
Summary
For successful LL cables worked in back-and-forth rows: always insert your hook from RS to WS into an untwisted cable loop; if you place your loops on a holder, note which way they're facing, and make sure they all face the same way. This will help you identify the loops' RS when you work the following row.
When working inverse (WS row) cables, move your yarn to the front before working the cable, then to the back before working the LL stitch after the cable. (Remember that front and back refer to whatever side you're working on right now.) As you complete the LL stitch, keep the cable loops to the back (on the fabric's RS).
You can yarn over or yarn under when pulling up cable loops, as long as you keep it consistent within each cable, and insert your hook properly on the following row. I like to yarn over on RS rows, and yarn under on WS rows; you should do whatever works best for you.
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Thanks for viewing and reading this post. If you have any questions, feel free to ask in the comment section below.
Here's a quick tutorial for using crochet chains to dress up a plain tassel.
You will need: yarn, scissors, ruler, crochet hook, yarn needle, and something to wrap the yarn around (try a wide ruler, small book, piece of cardboard, or dedicated tassel tool).
1. Leaving a 3" tail, firmly chain about 10", or to desired length. Cut yarn 3" from last chain and tie off.
2. Holding the crochet chain at one long edge of your tassel form, wrap the yarn around the form to the desired tassel thickness. For this tassel (made with DK weight yarn), I wrapped completely around the ruler 20 times. For a fuller tassel, or if using finer yarn, try 40 wraps or more. Optional: you can also set the chain aside and slide it through the loops after you finish wrapping.
3. Center the loops on the chain, then tie chain ends in a double knot close to the loops. This is the top of your tassel.
4. Slide the loops off the form.
5. Cut a piece of yarn 2 ½ times the length of your tassel. Wrap the yarn twice around the tassel, about ½ - 1" from the top; tie firmly with a double knot, pulling the yarn as tight as you can.
6. Weave the yarn tails over the wrapped yarn and down through the tassel. Set tassel aside.
7. Leaving a tail as long as your tassel, firmly chain 2-3". Cut yarn, again leaving a tail as long as your tassel, and tie off loosely.
8. Firmly wrap the chain 3-4 times around the tassel over the previous yarn wrap until the chain ends barely meet. (You can frog chain stitches as needed to adjust the length.)
9. Keeping the chain wrap flat and smooth, tie the chain tails together with a firm double knot. Weave the tails through the chain and into the tassel.
10. Insert scissors into the looped tassel ends. Pulling gently to keep the blade centered, cut across all the loops.
11. Trim tassel ends as needed.
12. Lay the tassel on the table (or any flat surface). Without lifting the tassel, grasp one of the chain ends and twist it several times. Without letting go of the first chain, twist the second chain several times in the same direction.
Lift the tassel off the table. The chain ends should now twist around each other. Adjust the twist as desired, then secure the twist by tying a knot at the chain ends.
And there you are - one crochet-wrapped tassel with twisted chain cord!
P.S. These tassels look especially cute hanging from the top of a slouchy crochet hat....
Today we'll finish up the series by learning how to use I-cord as edging for crochet.
I-Cord as Edging
I-cord edging is soft, flexible, and elastic. It wraps around the fabric edge, so it looks good from both sides while offering protection from over-stretching or abrasion. Its clean lines offer a crisp visual contrast to crochet's somewhat busy texture.
I-Cord Edging as Intermediate Rows/Rounds
I-cord edging can double as a foundation for further rows of crochet, as seen in the cross-section photo below (from a cowl pattern to be included in my upcoming cable book).
You might be wondering: why use I-cord in the middle of a project, when the same look can be achieved with other stitches such as slip stitch or back bar hdc? In this project, the I-cord edging provided necessary structure, and helped counteract the fabric's tendency to curl.
So how is I-cord edging made? Let's find out! (Note: there's more than one way to make I-cord edging; I've chosen to demonstrate the one that works best for me. See Technical Q & A below for a link to another method.)
Videotutorial
Phototutorial with Instructions in Plain English
This tutorial is for a 4-stitch cord, but you can adjust that number to suit your preferences. A minimum of 3 loops is recommended. (For a "cheater" 2-loop I-cord edging, see end of post.)
Instructions are written for right-handed crocheters.
What you’ll need:
A piece of crochet - can be solid, lacy, or both
Yarn for edging
Hook
Yarn needle for weaving in
Stitch holder (can be a bobby pin or just a scrap of yarn)
Optional: Extra hook two or three sizes smaller (for hooking up Afterthought Column)
Link to tutorial for technique used in this post: Working the I-cord Body (scroll down in post for tips on working I-cord with a hook)
Starting the Edging
1. (RS) With right side facing, attach new yarn with slip stitch in any stitch of your project.
2. Chain the desired number of I-cord loops (I chained 4).
3 - 4. Starting in the second chain from the hook, insert hook in back loop of chain, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat in the next 2 chains - 4 loops now on hook. (Note: if you're making a different size of I-cord, you'll have a different number of loops on the hook.)
TURN.
5 - 6. (WS) With wrong side of project facing, insert hook into next crochet stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop - 5 loops now on hook.
7. Remove hook from loops. Place rightmost loop on a holder and forget about it for now.
Next Row
8. Being careful not to twist loops, insert hook into rightmost free loop, yarn over and pull up a loop.
Repeat in next loop. If you're making a 4-loop I-cord, you should now have 2 loops on your hook, and 2 empty loops remaining.
9 - 10. Insert your hook into both remaining loops(right loop first, left loop second), yarn over and pull up a loop.
11. Insert hook into next crochet stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop - 4 loops now on hook.
Tips:
Always check that each loop is properly oriented before inserting the hook.
Gently pinching the base of the row can help keep loops facing forward.
Following Rows
*Remove hook from 3 leftmost loops, leaving only the rightmost loop on the hook. Yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook in next loop, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into both remaining loops together, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next crochet stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops now on hook). Repeat from *.
Note: Each time you work these 4 loops, you're making and attaching a new row of I-cord to the project. The first 3 loops are the actual I-cord loops; the 4th loop is what I call an "attachment loop". (More on this in Technical Q & A below.)
Tip: Keep a relaxed stitch tension when working I-cord rows. Here's what your I-cord should look like on the back (which is the RS of the project):
Don't tighten the loose loops; we'll need them later.
Working Into or Over Spaces
When making I-cord edging, there are two ways to deal with spaces or corners in your crochet.
12 - 13. You can attach multiple I-cord rows in the same space or stitch. Photo 13 below shows 3 rows of I-cord worked into the corner space.
14. You can work detached I-cord for as many rows as you like, then re-attach to the work on the other side of the space.
To work detached rows, do not pull up a loop in the next stitch or space. With one less loop on the hook, work standard I-cord rows (yarn over and pull up a loop in each loop from right to left, remove hook from all but rightmost loop, repeat) to desired length. When you're ready to re-attach to the crochet, insert your hook into the desired stitch or space, yarn over and pull up a loop. Photo 14 below shows a few rows of detached I-cord that have not yet been re-attached to the project.
Tips:
When working into or around spaces or corners, work the same number of I-cord rows as you would crochet stitches into that space. For example, in the triangular sample below, I worked 4 rows of I-cord into or over each corner.
You can combine the two methods (attached and detached) in any stitch or space.
Either method can be used to increase stitch count, add circumference to a fabric edge, or create special effects (e.g. decorative detached I-cord loops along an edge).
To tighten up a fabric edge, simply skip a stitch or stitches before pulling up the next attachment loop.
Ending the Edging: Afterthought Column
Not pictured:When you have pulled up the final attachment loop in the last empty crochet stitch, remove hook and place all loops on a holder or scrap of yarn. (These loops will be called "live" loops.)
15-16. Take original reserved loop (from Step 7) off its holder. Insert hook from bottom to top through slip stitch used to attach edging yarn, place reserved loop on hook, pull reserved loop through slip stitch.
17. With RS of project facing you, insert hook under first loose strand; pull strand through loop on hook. *Insert hook under next loose strand, pull through loop on hook. Repeat from * around the project.
18. If you worked any detached I-cord at the corners, the "loose" strand may have tightened up and be hard to find. See second note below.
Tips:
Be careful to hook up 1 strand for each row of I-cord. (If you miss a row, your edging will pucker.)
Each row of I-cord will have two strands under it, forming a V that resembles the legs of a single crochet. Make sure you pick up the strand that is attached to the rightmost I-cord loop. (To check, tug on the strand as you pick it up. The I-cord loop nearest you should tighten up.)
19. When you have hooked up the last loose strand, place the loop on the holder with the other live loops. Cut working yarn, leaving a 6" tail. Thread the tail on a yarn needle.
Seaming the Ends
Before starting the seam, identify the stitches you will be attaching to (I call them "target stitches"): look for the first row of recognizable I-cord loops just above the I-cord starting chain.
Note: You should have 1 more live loop than you do target stitches.
To begin the seam, insert needle from back to front through the rightmost loop on the holder.
Pass needle behind the 2 legs of the target stitch.
Insert needle from front to back through the originating loop; tighten gently. First duplicate stitch made.
Repeat this step, working across the row, until you have 2 live loops left on the holder, and 1 target stitch left in the target row.
Keeping leftmost loop behind, insert needle from back to front through both remaining live loops, pass needle behind 2 legs of the last target stitch, insert needle front to back through the 2 loops.
Seam is now complete.
Before weaving in the ends, tighten or loosen the seam loops as needed to match surrounding stitch size. If tightening, work from right to left (or beginning to end) of the seam. If loosening, work from left to right (or end to beginning).
Weave in ends and admire your nifty I-cord edging!
Technical Q & A
Why is the hook inserted into 2 loops at once on every row?
To maintain the stitch count. Each time you pull up an attachment loop from the project, you're adding a loop; inserting the hook into 2 loops at a time acts as a decrease to get you back down to the desired number of loops. (Confused? Read on.)
The tutorial shows you picking up 4 loops for every I-cord row, but then you hooked up an extra column of loops after the fact. Doesn't that make it a 5-stitch I-cord?
No; it's still a 4-stitch I-cord. As mentioned (far) above, the last loop picked up in every row is what I call an "attachment loop". It doesn't count as an I-cord loop; instead it acts as the "legs" of what will essentially become a single crochet attaching the I-cord to the project. What I've initially worked in this tutorial is a loose, attached 3-stitch I-cord; hooking up the afterthought column adds the 4th I-cord loop to every row. (It's kind of mind-blowing, for me at least, but if you count the visible I-cord loops after hooking up the afterthought column, you'll find that there are only 4 columns of loops.)
You mentioned that there's another way to make I-cord edging? Yes; there are two basic methods for making attached I-cord, and I've shown you my adaptation of one of them. The other basic method is worked RS facing; it eliminates the decrease, and instead inserts the hook through the last I-cord loop and the next crochet stitch at the same time. You can find an example of it here.
The other way seems more straightforward; why do you prefer your method? I found that working the I-cord loosely from the WS, then hooking up an afterthought column on the RS, gave me a smoother, stretchier result, with no crochet stitches visible between I-cord loops. I'd encourage you to try both methods, and see what works best for you.
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But wait, there's more!
Cheater 2-Stitch I-Cord Edging
This minimal I-cord edging gives an interesting double-chain edge to any flat piece of crochet. It's especially appropriate for pieces that will later be joined by seaming or other methods.
With RS facing, using attached yarn or project yarn, loosely chain 1.
Starting in the next stitch, work 1 round of very loose single crochet. Place working loop on holder. Do not turn. Tip: The easiest way to work loose stitches is to pull up a very TALL first loop at the base of the stitch.
Flipping top edge of work towards you so you can see the back of the stitches, insert hook from left to right into back bump of chain stitch, then rotate hook to face in the proper direction. This will form a twisted loop on the hook (do not twist any other loops but this one.)
*Insert hook under nearest "leg" of next sc (2 loops now on hook), pull second loop through first. Repeat from *, being careful not to miss the final sc. Place final afterthought column loop on holder.
If working in the round, join ends with a double invisible join (remove holder from working loop, join with invisible join to first sc of round; bring yarn tail from back to front through final afterthought loop, remove holder, join with invisible join to twisted loop).
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Whew!
This post (and series) has taken months to finish; sometimes I thought it would never be done. Anyone who has read this far probably feels the same. :D
If I-cord fascinates you as it does me, you might enjoy the following links:
Today we’ll talk about working crochet stitches into I-cord.
I-Cord as Foundation Row
I-cord makes a smashing foundation row for crochet - it's flexible, elastic, easy to work into, and looks good from both sides.
An I-cord foundation can be subtle or bold, depending on the colour used. Either way, it looks great:
Reversible, flexible, versatile I-cord
Where to Insert the Hook
There are two main factors to consider when working into I-cord:
How many loops you want to work into (2 or 1)
The direction those loops are going in relation to the stitches around them.
While there's no right or wrong way to insert the hook, you may notice slight variations in stitch appearance based on the above factors.
As you can see in the photo below, I-cord is made up of rows of interlocking Vs, with each complete row of Vs representing one column of I-cord stitches.
The Vs can point either right or left, depending on how you look at them:
Vs pointing in both directions
Should You Insert the Hook into 2 Loops or 1?
This will depend on your desired results.
Inserting the hook under 2 loops will:
Give a sturdy join between cord and crochet
Flatten the I-cord slightly
Occupy, or use up, an entire column of stitches (or Vs)
Inserting the hook under 1 loop will:
Give a more delicate join between cord and crochet
Allow the I-cord to remain more rounded
Occupy, or use up, half a column of stitches (or 1 leg of the Vs)
Tip: If you're working into 2 loops, start with an odd-count I-cord (eg 3, 5, 7 stitches) - it will fold neatly in half and give a better appearance than an even-count cord. (I like to use a 5-stitch I-cord.)
Working into 2 Loops - Direction of Vs
When working into 2 loops, if you insert the hook under a leftward-pointing V, it's like working back across a row of crochet in a back-and-forth project. (I call this "against the loops", for lack of a better name.)
If you insert your hook under a rightward-pointing V, it's like working spiral rounds in crochet, where all the stitches are going the same way. (I call this "with the loops".)
Stitches worked "with the loops" will sit closer to the front of the I-cord, making the I-cord look a tiny bit smaller.
Stitches worked "against the loops" will sit back a bit, allowing more I-cord to show. They'll also expose a little more of the I-cord loops between the stitches, as seen below:
Remember, there's no wrong way to insert your hook. You can work into any loops you like - just be careful that you stick with the same loops all the way around, or your I-cord will twist.
Working into 1 Loop - Direction of Vs Here's where the terminology can get a little confusing.
Because the Vs go in both directions, there's no way to say whether a single strand is a "back loop" or a "front loop":
So we'll have to pick a direction - in this case "against the loops", or with the Vs pointing left - and use that as our frame of reference for back loop vs. front loop.
As you can see in the samples below, the "BLO" stitches sit more tidily into the work, while the "FLO" stitches seem to stretch out the I-cord:
Conclusion: Whether working into 1 loop or 2, choose the loop(s) that give the desired appearance. Do I Have to Work into Every Stitch?
Nope! Working into I-cord is just like working into a starting chain or foundation row. You can skip stitches or work more than one stitch into a stitch - whatever your project demands.
Gauge
As with any starting chain or foundation stitch, you may find that the gauge differs between the foundation and the main body of the work. My own I-cord foundations often have a tighter gauge than crochet stitches worked into them with the same hook size; your mileage may vary.
A tighter I-cord foundation is not a bad thing. If you're making a top-down cowl or sweater, or a bottom-up hat, it can draw in the edge attractively, and help prevent stretching out.
But if you want the I-cord gauge to closely match the crochet stitch gauge, here are some options:
If I-cord is too tight for the crochet (crochet curves outwards when cord is laid flat):
Work the I-cord with a larger hook and/or the crochet stitches with a smaller hook
Skip some I-cord stitches (as needed) when working into the I-cord
If I-cord is too loose for the crochet (crochet cups inwards when cord is laid flat):
Work the I-cord with a smaller hook, and/or the crochet stitches with a larger hook
Work more than one crochet stitch (as needed) into your I-cord stitches
Summary
Treat an I-cord foundation as you would any crochet foundation: simply choose a loop or set of loops to work into, be consistent when working into those loops, and adjust hook, stitch count, or tension as needed.
Swatching is always a good idea, too. :)
~ ~ ~
In the next (and final!) I-cord post, we'll learn how to use I-cord as a finishing edge for crochet.
Also coming soon: a free pattern featuring an I-cord foundation and finishing edge, with lacy crochet in between:
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