Saturday, November 22, 2014

Limpet Mitts Free Pattern and CAL, Part 2 ~ Thumb Gusset, Body, and Wrist Edging


Welcome to Part 2 of the Limpet Mitts Crochet-Along! Here's where we we left off last week:


This is the pretty top cuff to our mitt. Today we'll tackle the thumb gusset, body, and wrist trim, and discuss how to customise mitt size.

If you missed the last two posts, you can find them here:
Limpet Mitts, the Warmup (don't skip this post - it contains valuable pattern tips)
Limpet Mitts, Part 1 ~ the Top Cuff

All crochet terms are American.

Video and photo tutorials can be found below the pattern.


Abbreviations and Special Terms Used:

RS - Right side
Ch - Chain
Sc - single crochet
Hdc - half double crochet
Sc2together, or Normal Decrease - Insert hook in indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.
Special Decrease - An sc2together combined with an extra hdc in either the first or second stitch of the decrease. Not a true decrease at all, but it gives the decorative look of the decrease while maintaining stitch count.
Slipped Slip Join - drop working loop from hook; keeping yarn behind work, insert hook from wrong side to right side through top two strands of first stitch of row; pull working loop through and tighten until join disappears. Chain as instructed to begin new round. (See Pattern Part 1 for photos and video tutorial.)
Forlpch - Forward Loop Chain (see Warmup Post for photo and video tutorial)
Ending Picot, or Forlp Chain/Hdc Ending Picot - Forward Loop Chain 1, yarn over, insert hook into back bump of Forlpch and pull up a loop, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and IMMEDIATELY pull through all loops on hook.

Limpet Mitts Pattern with Tips in Mostly Plain English, Part 2

~ Body of mitt will be worked in spiral rounds; wrist edging uses joined rounds.
~ Work RS facing at all times.

Round 9 (RS): Make thumb loop: Forward Loop Chain 10 (11,12,13 OR custom length that comfortably fits around the base of your thumb), slip stitch in same stitch (where previous round was joined), being careful not to twist Forlpch. Sc in next stitch, then hdc in each stitch around, finishing in the last hdc before slip stitch. Be careful not to stitch into the slip stitch. Do not turn, on this or any other round.

Note on Stitch Counts: Stitch count will vary widely based on cuff size and thumb size, so body stitch counts are not given. I recommend just counting the thumb stitches. (The body will decrease naturally with the thumb.)

Round 10: Skip slip stitch. Inserting hook into top 2 strands of first Forward Loop Chain, hdc in first Forlpch (place marker or scrap of yarn in hdc just made), then hdc in each Forlpch around thumb loop = 10 (11,12,13 OR custom number) hdcs. Skipping next slip stitch, hdc in sc (place marker or scrap of yarn in hdc just made). Hdc in each hdc around body, ending in stitch before marker.

Note on the Special Decreases you're about to make: Special Decrease A is made in the 1st and 2nd stitch of the thumb loop. Special Decrease B is made in the 1st and 2nd stitch of the body. Both decreases will start in the marked stitches.

Round 11 (Special Decrease round): Make Special Decrease A: Starting in marked stitch (first thumb stitch), sc2together, then hdc in same stitch (the second stitch of decrease). Hdc in each stitch around thumb, ending in last stitch before marker. In next marked stitch, make Special Decrease B: hdc in marked stitch, then, starting in same stitch, sc2together. You should now have 10 (11,12,13 OR custom number) hdcs between the sc2togethers. Place markers if desired in each sc2together. Hdc in the next stitch and in each stitch around, finishing in the last hdc before the sc2together.

Note: On following rounds, all decreases will be Normal Decreases (sc2together) and will start in the decrease stitch(es) of the previous round. Thumb stitch count will decrease by 1 stitch each round.

Round 12 (normal decrease round): Make normal decrease: Starting in decrease stitch of previous round, sc2together. Hdc in next stitch and in each stitch around thumb, finishing in last stitch before sc2together = 9 (10,11,12 OR custom number -1) thumb hdcs between decreases. Starting in next decrease stitch, sc2together. Hdc in the next stitch and in each stitch around, finishing in the last hdc before decrease.

If using markers in decreases, move them up with each round.

Following Rounds (normal decrease rounds): Repeat Round 12 until you finish a round with 3 hdcs between decrease stitches, OR to desired length of mitt (see Customising the Size below). Round should end just before thumb area containing the 3 hdcs.

Tip: The following rows will add about 1" to your Mitt, so plan accordingly.

Last Body Round: Do not decrease, but work 1 full round of plain hdc, ending 1 stitch into thumb area. Sc in next stitch, join to next stitch with Slipped Slip Join (see Special Stitches, above). Hook and working loop should now be in center of thumb area.

Wrist Edging Round 1, back loop only: Do not turn, chain 1 (does not count as stitch.) Starting in same stitch, working in the back loop only, single crochet around. Join last sc to first sc with Slipped Slip Join. (You may want to start counting stitches now, to keep the next 2 rounds even.)

Wrist Edging Round 2, back loop only: Do not turn, chain 2 (does not count as stitch). Starting in same stitch, working in the back loop only, hdc around. Join last hdc to first hdc with Slipped Slip Join.

Wrist Edging Round 3, back loop only: Repeat Wrist Edging Round 1. You're almost done! :)

Final Picot Edging, back loop only: Make first edging picot as follows: Forlpch 1, *yarn over, insert hook into back ridge of Forlpch, pull up a loop* (picot started); insert hook into back loop of same sc (the sc you joined to), yarn over and immediately draw through all loops on hook (picot attached). To make second picot, repeat from * to *, insert hook in next sc, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook. Start third picot as others, but skip an sc before attaching.
Continue making picots and attaching in pattern around: start picot, attach to next stitch, start picot, skip a stitch and attach. (Or we could say: attach picots 2 in a row, then skip a stitch before attaching the next 2 in a row. See video or photos below if this doesn't make sense.)
Attach final picot in final sc (it's okay if the attaching pattern gets a little messed up by this). Chain 1, cut yarn several inches away from project, and gently pull yarn tail up and out of stitch.

Join bottom and top edges with Invisible Join (click here for tutorial), then weave in ends, and try on your beautiful new Limpet Mitt. (Or, if it's a gift, picture the delight of the recipient.) :)


Customising the Size

While working the Normal Decrease Rounds, try on your mitt every few rounds. If the body is decreasing too rapidly and mitt is becoming too snug, you can:
  • Work Special Decrease Round(s) as needed to maintain the stitch count/circumference and slow the decrease, OR
  • Simply stop decreasing and work plain hdc rounds to the wrist.
If you reach the end of the decreases, but the mitt is still too short, work plain hdc rounds until bottom edge just touches your wrist, ending 1 stitch into thumb area. Then work the Wrist Edging.

Video Tutorial



Phototutorial

See Pattern above for tips and detailed notes.

Round 9: To make thumb loop, Forward Loop chain to desired length, slip stitch in same stitch.


Try on the loop:


Sc in next stitch, then hdc around:


Ending Round 9 and beginning Round 10:
1. Hdc in last hdc from row below. Skip the slip stitch, and hdc in the top two strands of the first Forlpch.
2. Place a marker in the hdc you just made.
3. Hdc around the thumb loop (inserting hook into top strands of Forlpchs). Skip the slip stitch, then hdc in the first body stitch (which is the sc from the previous round.)
4. Place a marker in the hdc you just made.


Finishing Round 10: Hdc around until you reach the first marker.

Round 11, Special Decrease Round: Starting in marked stitch, make Special Decrease A:
sc2together, then hdc in the same stitch as the second half of the decrease.

Special Decrease A, beginning of thumb

Hdc around thumb to next marker, then make Special Decrease B: Remove marker and hdc in marked stitch. Then, sc2together, starting in SAME stitch where you made the hdc.

Special Decrease B, end of thumb

Hdc in the next stitch and in each stitch around.... but feel free to stop and try on your mitt first!


Finishing Round 11: Okay, back to our hdcs. Hdc around until you reach Special Decrease A.

Starting the Normal Decrease Rounds:

A Normal Decrease is just an sc2together, started in the top two strands of the decrease below.


Tip: If you're having trouble recognising the decreases, place a stitch marker in each one after you make it, and move the markers up with each row.

Recognising the Decreases - place marker if necessary

Note: With every Normal Decrease Round, the thumb count will decrease by 1 stitch.

Rounds 12 and Following, Normal Decrease Rounds:
Make a Normal Decrease starting in the first decrease from Round 11,
then hdc around the thumb,
then make another Normal Decrease starting in the decrease at the other side of the thumb.
Hdc around body until you get back to the first decrease.

Keep repeating Round 12, making decreases on top of the previous decreases, until you have completed a round with just 3 hdcs between the decreases, OR to desired size (see Customising the Size above):


When your mitt is the size and length you want - remember that the Wrist Edging will add about 1" to the length - work a round of plain hdc with no decreases, ending just before the thumb area:


Finishing the Body:
Make your last Hdc just inside the thumb area,
sc 1,
join to next stitch with Slipped Slip Join (see Special Stitches above). Do not turn.


Wrist Edging Round 1, back loop only: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Starting in same stitch, sc in back loops around. Join with Slipped Slip Join and chain 2.


Wrist Edging Round 2, back loop only: hdc in back loop around, join with Slipped Slip Join. (No photo of this round!

Wrist Edging Round 3, back loop only: Repeat Wrist Edging Round 1, join with Slipped Slip Join.

Wrist Edging Rounds 2 and 3

Final Picot Edging (woo hoo!)

The Edging Picots are similar to the Starting Picots from Part 1, BUT they need to be anchored to the row below. To make the first Edging Picot:

1. Make a Forward Loop Chain;
2. Yarn over, insert hook into back bump of Forlpch, and pull up a loop;
3. Insert hook into back loop of same sc (the sc you joined to);
4. Yarn over and IMMEDIATELY pull through all the loops on the hook.


Very Important: Do not pull up an extra loop after Step 3! If you do, your edging will not be as stretchy as it should.

Start another Picot (Forlp ch 1, yarn over, insert hook into back bump of forlpch and pull up a loop), then attach it to the next sc.
Start the third Picot, but when you attach this one, skip an sc.

Follow this pattern around the edge: start picot, attach to next stitch, start picot, skip a stitch and attach. (Or we could say: attach picots 2 in a row, then skip a stitch before attaching the next 2 in a row. It was hard to write clear directions for this section - if you can think of a better way to say it, please leave me a comment and I'll gladly amend the text!) :)


If you're wondering why we don't attach a Picot to every stitch, it's because each Picot is almost 2 stitches wide - so attaching one in every stitch would be too many.

Here's our Mitt, several Picots in:


When you reach the end of the round, make a final picot in the last sc. (You will have either 1 or 2 spaces left at the end of the round. If you have 2 spaces, just skip the first and make the final picot in the last space.)

If you like, try on your mitt now to make sure you're happy with it, then....

Chain 1, cut your yarn several inches away from the mitt, and pull yarn up and out of stitch.


Join bottom and top edges with Invisible Join (click here for tutorial), then weave in ends.


Now all you have to do is make another one!


Ideas for Variations:
  • Use the top cuff pattern as a pretty hat band
  • Design your own top cuff and follow the body instructions for decreasing
  • Add a ruffle at the bottom (instead of the ending picot round) - just *chain 3, 4, or 5, slip stitch in next st, and repeat from * around.
  • Make a Very Basic Mitt by starting with picot band, stitching plain hdc rows to desired cuff length, making body as in pattern, then finishing with the wrist edging of your choice.
Thanks so much for joining in the CAL - and do please send me a photo of your Mitts when completed. I'd love to post them here on the blog. (You can find my email in the Profile at right, or contact me in Ravelry as MrsMicawber.)

If you find any errors in the pattern (it happens regularly) or have any questions, please feel free to contact me through the comments below, via email, or in Ravelry.

You may do whatever you like with the items you make from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or reproduce its text without permission. Links are always welcome.

Happy crocheting!

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