Two Roads Hat Free Crochet Pattern & Tutorial ~ Version One

When the wind is whistling out of the west and turning your eartips blue, it's time to pull out some snuggly yarn and make yourself a hat. (Or two.)

Dear me, I seem to have fallen into verse. Let's have a bit of real poetry instead:

Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,

And sorry I could not travel both

And be one traveler, long I stood

And looked down one as far as I could....

Robert Frost

The nice thing about crochet is that you can always go back and travel the other road, given yarn enough and time. Which leads us right to December's free pattern: the Two Roads Hat.

Two Roads offers so many styling options, it might almost be called the Many Roads Hat.

Version One, simply a tall beanie, is perfect for scrunching into your purse or jacket pocket, ready to pull on at a moment's notice. Worked in a mossy cluster stitch from top to bottom, it has a naturally curly edge that forms a lovely roll-brim...

...or folds for wearing watchcap-style.

Keep the edge flat around your ears, and it becomes a slouchy hat.

Version One also offers plenty of scope for variations:

• Make it shorter and add a flower to the side, or gather up a bit of the brim for a cloche effect.
• Add a decorative shell-stitch edging, or a simple band made from rows of single or half-double crochet. (Note: this will eliminate the curly brim.)
• To make a tam, go up one hat size, then switch to a smaller hook and add a close-fitting band of your choice.

Looking for the road less traveled? Try Version Two, a shorter hat with a wonderfully textured band formed by back-loop-only rows:

Two roads meander around the stretchy
slip stitch band of Version Two

(Instructions for Version Two's slip stitch band will be posted separately in a day or so. But if you want to get started, follow the pattern until you have worked even rounds for about 2 inches.)

And now for the vital stats....

Gauge: 2 clusters (4 stitches) per inch. Row height does not matter as hat is custom sized.

Size:
S (will fit up to 21" head)
M (will fit 22" head)
L (will fit 23"-24" head)

Yarn Requirements: 170-210 yards of medium/worsted/#4 weight yarn

Yarns I Used:
Cascade Pacific, Clover
Cascade 220 Superwash, #1973 Seafoam Heather
NaturallyCaron Country (not pictured, but highly recommended)

How Did the Yarns Behave?
All very well. Cascade Pacific (lilac colour) was the test yarn for this hat, and even after multiple froggings stayed silky and sproingy, with very little splitting. Cascade 220 Superwash (aqua colour) has a lovely soft hand and worked up into a dense, cuddly fabric. NaturallyCaron Country (not pictured), a favourite yarn of mine, was used for swatching and gave beautiful stitch definition - definitely a recommended yarn for this project.

Hook Size:
Both versions: For the cluster-stitch body of the hat, choose a hook size slightly larger than is recommended for your yarn - this will give the fabric better drape.
Version Two: For the slip-stitch band, you'll need a second hook 1-2 sizes larger than the hook you used for the body.
(I used an I/9 or 5.5mm hook for the body of both hats, and a K/10½ or 6.5mm for the slip stitch rows on Version Two.)

Notions:
Stitch marker or scrap of yarn
For Version Two: 3 medium buttons, a flower, or any trim of your choice to cover the joins on the band portion.

All crochet terminology is American.

For all you chart-lovers out there:

Two Roads Hat Shorthand Pattern (cluster stitch portion is the same for both versions):

Pattern Notes: Hat is worked in a spiral, so marking the last stitch of each round is recommended. Increases are not the same on every round; read instructions carefully.

(To make a child's size hat, measure the child's head circumference. Stop increase rounds when the crochet circle's edge measures about 1/2" less than the head measurement. Work all following rounds even.)

Stitch abbreviation: Cl (cluster) - sc, dc in indicated st

To start, knotless chain 2. (Click here for a very quick tutorial.)
Right side is facing at all times.
Round 1: Cl 4 in first ch = 8 st.
Round 2: Cl in each st around = 16 st.
Round 3: [Cl in next 3 st, sk 1 st] four times around = 24 st.
Round 4: [Cl in next sc, sc in dc, cl in next 2 sc] four times around = 28 st.
Note: Be careful not to skip over any scs; watch for the places where 2 scs are next to each other.
Round 5: [Cl in next sc, sc in dc, cl in next 3 sc] four times around = 36 st.
Round 6: [Cl in next sc, sc in dc, cl in next 4 sc] four times around = 44 st.
Round 7: [Cl in next sc, sc in dc, cl in next sc, sc in sc, cl in next 3 sc] four times around = 48 st.
Round 8: [Cl in next sc, sc in dc, cl in next 2 sc, sc in next sc, cl in next 3 sc] four times around = 56 st.
Round 9: Cl in each sc around = 64 st.
Round 10, Size S: [Cl in next sc, sc in dc, cl in next 15 sc] two times around = 66 st.
Round 10, Size M,L: [Cl in next sc, sc in dc, cl in next 7 sc] four times around = 68 st.
Round 11: Cl in each sc around = 68 st (S), 72 st (M,L).
Round 12, Size S,M: Cl in each sc around = 68 st (S), 72 st (M,L).
Round 12, Size L: [Cl in next sc, sc in dc, cl in next 17 sc] two times around = 74* st.
Rounds 13 and onward: Work even - cl in each sc around = 68 (72,76) st.

*(Special thanks to njsharon on Ravelry who pointed out a math discrepancy in Size Large Round 12. By Round 13, you should have 76 stitches for a Large hat.)

Continue even rounds until hat is desired length. For Version One: cut yarn a few inches from last stitch, and join w/invisible join to next sc. (Click here for the invisible join tutorial.) Weave in ends, and enjoy your new hat! :)

For Version Two: Do not cut yarn. Instructions for Version Two's slip stitch band will be posted in a day or so.

Two Roads Hat, Version One, Phototutorial with Instructions in Plain English:

Before you start:

• Be sure to read the Pattern Notes above.
• "Cluster" means to make a single crochet AND a double crochet in indicated stitch.
• Remember to use a stitch marker at the end of each round, and keep moving it up. It will save you a lot of trouble and confusion. :)
• The right side of the hat will be facing you at all times.
• If you want to make Version Two, follow this tutorial and stop when you have worked about 2" of even rounds. Instructions for the slip stitch band will follow in a separate post.

To start, knotless chain 2. (Click here for a very quick tutorial.)
Round 1:
Make 4 clusters in first chain = 8 stitches. Don't forget to wrap the yarn tail around the hook when making the first stitch into the ring.

Option: For extra security, you can wrap the yarn tail around again at any point during the first round and catch it under some of the stitches.

Round 2:
Cluster in each stitch around = 16 stitches.

Now is a good time to place a marker on the last stitch of the round. I like to use a scrap of yarn or a bobby pin. Other options are bread bag tabs or twist ties. (You could of course use actual stitch markers if you have some.) :)

Round 3:
Make a cluster in each of the next 3 stitches, then skip 1 stitch. Do this four times around = 24 stitches.

Note: The last stitch of each round will always be a double crochet, and from Round 3 onwards, it will always be skipped.

Here we are at the end of Round 3:

Notice that your final cluster stops short of the final stitch from the round before - that is because you are skipping that stitch. (Every round will end this way.) To start the next round, skip over the marked stitch and work into the single crochet just after it. And don't forget to move your marker up with each round!

More helpful hints: Starting with Round 4, all clusters will be stitched in single crochets only. The only time you'll stitch into a double crochet is when you make the lone single crochets that form the quarterly increases on each round.

Round 4: Here is where the funky increases start.
Cluster in next single crochet,
single crochet in double crochet,
cluster in next 2 single crochets (skipping over the double crochets between them).
Do this four times around = 28 stitches.

Round 5:
Important Note: Watch for the places where there are 2 single crochets (from the previous round) next to each other. Be careful not to skip over any single crochets.

Cluster in next single crochet,
single crochet in double crochet,
cluster in next 3 single crochets.
Do this four times around = 36 stitches.

This is the last photo for several rounds. To be perfectly honest, it would take too long to add all the necessary text - and photos alone won't really show you how to make the increases. But I'm sure you have the hang of things by now - just read the instructions carefully as you go, and don't forget to watch out for the spots where there are 2 single crochets in a row.

Round 6:
Cluster in next single crochet,
single crochet in double crochet,
cluster in next 4 single crochets.
Do this four times around = 44 stitches.

Round 7:
Heads up for another funky increase change!
Cluster in next single crochet,
single crochet in double crochet,
cluster in next single crochet,
single crochet in next single crochet,
cluster in next 3 single crochets.
Do this four times around = 48 stitches.

Round 8:
Cluster in next single crochet,
single crochet in double crochet,
cluster in next 2 single crochets,
single crochet in next single crochet,
cluster in next 3 single crochets.
Do this four times around = 56 stitches.

Round 9:
Cluster in each single crochet around = 64 stitches or 32 clusters.

Round 10, Size S:
Cluster in next single crochet,
single crochet in double crochet,
cluster in next 15 single crochets.
Do this two times around = 66 stitches.

Round 10, Size M,L:
Cluster in next single crochet,
single crochet in double crochet,
cluster in next 7 single crochets.
Do this four times around = 68 stitches.

Round 11:
Cluster in each single crochet around = 68 stitches (S), 72 stitches (M,L).

Round 12, Size S,M:
Cluster in each single crochet around = 68 stitches (S), 72 stitches (M,L).

Round 12, Size L:
Cluster in next single crochet,
single crochet in double crochet,
cluster in next 17 single crochets.
Do this two times around = 76 stitches.

Here we are at the end of Round 12. Those tedious increases are finished - we're ready to start working even rounds. (Yay!)

Rounds 13 and onward:
Cluster in each single crochet around = 34 clusters (S), 36 clusters (M), 38 clusters (L).

Keep working even rounds (a cluster in every single crochet) until your hat is as tall as you'd like. Try it on as you go to find the best fit. Because the brim is so very curly, leave yourself plenty of extra length if you want a nicely rolled brim (my hat measures about 9½" from center to edge).

For Version One, cut yarn a few inches from final stitch, and join with invisible join to next single crochet. (Click here for the invisible join tutorial.)

Weave in ends, then run to the mirror and see how many ways you can style your new hat. Enjoy! :)

For Version Two: Do not cut yarn. Instructions for Version Two's slip stitch band will be available in a day or so.

If you have any questions, or find any mistakes, please feel free to use the comment box below. You may also contact me in Ravelry as MrsMicawber.

You may do whatever you like with the items you make from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern. If items made from this pattern are sold, please credit the designer. :)

Thanks for viewing, and happy crocheting! (And may your eartips never be cold again.)

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